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 How To: DIY Air Shifter for Gen II ZX14R 
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I got this from Wheelie and he got it from Rich Craft 1. Before that – I don’t know! If anyone sees something wrong with the procedure, please jump in!!!
All you need is a little background in basic tools, electrical wiring, and “plumbing.” It’s not cheap, but it is a good solid system that uses quality components. We chose Nitrous because it is always available at the track and a 1 lb. bottle is good for hundreds of shifts. You could also use CO2 or an on-board compressor or even the original – air!
If you have an Ace Hardware, you can pick up all of the following for the Ram mount in one place:
Stud 5/16" x 2.5" Ace Hardware (1.5" fine thread, 0.5" shoulder, 0.5" coarse thread)
Drill bit – 9/32
Tap 5/16 x 24 (fine thread)
1" spacer – chrome, 5/16”
5/16" Jam nut – thinner than a regular nut and allow for more threads into the motor mount
Acorn nut,and 5/16 nut, both coarse thread and both chrome
5/16” clevis and ¼” clevis pin (to mount to the shift lever).
Here is the stud (carburetor stud, I believe) (Note that one end is fine thread and the other is coarse):

Attachment:
Stud.JPG
Stud.JPG [ 25.7 KiB | Viewed 167 times ]


Here is the stud mocked up (without the 1” spacer that would be between the jam nuts (also showing only regular nut, ‘cause that’s all I had handy). The nut to the right does not exist in the actual assembly, but shows about where the chrome spacer would extend to, leaving about 8 threads to thread into the engine mount bolt. Excuse the old hardware, but you get the idea:

Attachment:
StudComplete.JPG
StudComplete.JPG [ 27.98 KiB | Viewed 167 times ]


Sun Jan 27, 2013 11:12 am
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The motor mount is already hollow, so you are just drilling it out slightly bigger to be able to tap it to 5/16 x 24 (fine thread). The book calls for a drill size of Letter “I” (0.272) but unless you own a machine shop, a 9/32 (0.281) drill bit will work fine. Drill and tap to ¾ inch deep will be plenty as the stud will only have about 10 – 12 threads at most into the mount. You can do this in place, but if you are comfortable with removing and replacing the mount, you will see that it is somewhat “pointed” and if you grind it flat, it will provide a more solid mount. On final assembly, use thread locker to insure that the stud stays in place.
The order of assembly for the top mount is to thread the first jam nut to the shoulder, add the spacer, then the other jam nut. Check to see how many threads are left. If memory serves, I only had 6 or 8 threads, and I wanted more, so I ground off a small amount from the back side of the chrome spacer to get me 10 – 12 threads. Next double nut the coarse thread end, put thread locker on the fine thread end, then tighten into the engine mount.

Assembled, it looks like this:

Attachment:
TopMount.JPG
TopMount.JPG [ 40 KiB | Viewed 167 times ]


Sun Jan 27, 2013 11:13 am
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The Ram is now ready to mount. I assume that you already went to Grainger (Schnitz has the same parts, but the price is about double) and bought the following:
Air Cylinder 5ZEE4 (Must press out the pin in the top mount and drill to 5/16”)
Solenoid 6JJ52

Thread the clevis on the bottom shaft of the Ram and hang the Ram on the top mount and add a nut so it doesn’t fall off. The critical thing at this point is to have the shaft at its midpoint of travel exactly lined up with the arm of the shift lever so there is no binding in either the up or down direction. My clevis was too long to allow this, so I had to cut it off, but buying a proper length clevis in the first place would work also. The clevis is 5/16’ but I used a ¼ ‘ clevis rod to go through the hole drilled in the shift lever to avoid any binding. The hole should be drilled at a point that keeps the Ram near-vertical.


The end result, in my case, looks like this:

Attachment:
RamComplete.JPG
RamComplete.JPG [ 88.31 KiB | Viewed 167 times ]


Sun Jan 27, 2013 11:13 am
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The rest of the install is a matter of wiring and plumbing, depending on your choice of “air” and electronics. The Carolina Cycle regulator (part # 12050) will serve well to step down Nitrous or CO2 to 125 or so psi.

If you go with the MPS Autoshift box (1-0299) the following wires on the 2012 R model will be tapped in at the ECU as follows:

#1 blk
#2 blk/red tracer
#3 blk/orange tracer
#4 blk/green tracer

To make those wires easy to find, it will look like this:

Attachment:
06_11_wiring.JPG
06_11_wiring.JPG [ 39.52 KiB | Viewed 167 times ]


Sun Jan 27, 2013 11:14 am
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Finally, in my case, here is how it all fits under the seat:

Attachment:
UnderSeat.JPG
UnderSeat.JPG [ 116.11 KiB | Viewed 167 times ]


Sun Jan 27, 2013 11:14 am
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Awesome wright up and very descriptive!!
:thumbs:

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Sun Jan 27, 2013 2:09 pm
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This post is very informative!

I did have a quick question though... does anyone make a plug and play harness to hook into the horn switch like boostbysmith does for the Hayabusa's? I'm used to and like the easiness of that stuff.

If at the very least does anyone have a wiring diagram (not just the coils for the kill) for setting up a Gen2 to use the horn switch as the air shift button?

I've searched and read some topics about how the Gen2 is different then Gen1 and read about a couple of issues people have had with the dash lights flashing.

Thanks!


Mon Jul 29, 2013 5:26 pm
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MPS has a plug and play harness that hooks to the horn with a switch runs about 42 bucks

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Mon Jul 29, 2013 9:14 pm
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I saw that one but it says only 07-11 so it will work on a Gen2?

Time to make a call to ask I guess, haha


Tue Jul 30, 2013 6:27 am
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If you go on the mps site. the one I have has a small mps box that has switch built in.

Part # 1-0317
MPS Horn Button/Air Shifter Control Switch Swapper $42.90

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Tue Jul 30, 2013 10:45 am
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Much Appreciated!


Tue Jul 30, 2013 1:41 pm
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I hooked up quite a few MPS auto air shifter, but always with a button shift... I'm doing on this wek on a ZX-14R & will be using the Horn/ shift swapper box from MPS, Anyone use this on the new 14R?? anything i have to know special to wire it up?? Like to get info ahead so i can get ur done... Thanks in advance

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Sat Aug 24, 2013 9:04 pm
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I have it on mine, it tells you exactly how to hook it up. 2 wires to the horn and 2 wires for the horn to the box power wire and ground

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Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:15 pm
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Thanks...

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Sun Aug 25, 2013 7:38 am
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Viper

do you just tap in to the wires or does it make you cut anything?

Thanks again!


Mon Aug 26, 2013 6:59 am
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2 yellow wires plug into the 2 wires from the horn. 2 green wires plug into the horn

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Mon Aug 26, 2013 9:40 pm
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Any switched 12v source recommended to use up front for the switch swapper box ?

Trying to find the right color coded wire


Fri Oct 11, 2013 10:54 am
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Can someone just post a list of parts, and where to order?

I have a ram, and mount setup. But the rest is leaving me confused...

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Wed Oct 30, 2013 5:48 pm
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Shane661 wrote:
Can someone just post a list of parts, and where to order?

I have a ram, and mount setup. But the rest is leaving me confused...

Are you using a 1 lb nos bottle for air?

wee


Wed Oct 30, 2013 5:55 pm
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My opinion this is the best regulator on the market.

wee

https://carolinacycle.net/shop-online/product/32-hi-pressure-adjustable-regulator


Wed Oct 30, 2013 6:02 pm
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I have these, I believe 2ft and 4ft.

wee

http://www.zex.com/zx/nitrous-components/steel-braided-hoseshtml?___store=zx


Wed Oct 30, 2013 6:06 pm
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Wheelie wrote:
Shane661 wrote:
Can someone just post a list of parts, and where to order?

I have a ram, and mount setup. But the rest is leaving me confused...

Are you using a 1 lb nos bottle for air?

wee


I have the paintball stuff, but plan to switch that over, when possible. The part that is confusing me the most is the electronics. Like, what exact harness do I need? What kill box? I don't really want an autoshift-only setup, but the option to autoshift would be nice.

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Thu Oct 31, 2013 7:35 am
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Wheelie wrote:
My opinion this is the best regulator on the market.

wee

https://carolinacycle.net/shop-online/product/32-hi-pressure-adjustable-regulator


What gauge are you using on it? What fittings and AN size? On the ram, I imagine I need a 1/8" NPT to AN fitting, but not sure where to get it and what size to use.

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Thu Oct 31, 2013 7:39 am
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Shane661 wrote:
Wheelie wrote:
My opinion this is the best regulator on the market.

wee

https://carolinacycle.net/shop-online/product/32-hi-pressure-adjustable-regulator


What gauge are you using on it? What fittings and AN size? On the ram, I imagine I need a 1/8" NPT to AN fitting, but not sure where to get it and what size to use.

I use a 300 lb gauge, any will do, 300 just in case I do something that would pop a 150, I believe it's an an4, what till Lucky chimes in to confirm that. Try your local hardware store.

wee


Thu Oct 31, 2013 3:22 pm
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Shane661 wrote:
Can someone just post a list of parts, and where to order?

I have a ram, and mount setup. But the rest is leaving me confused...


Here are some more specifics:

The easy way to do this is to take your parts to a hot rod shop that does nitrous and let them find all the fittings of the right size and do a trial assembly:

Braided steel nitrous lines:
-4 an 2 ft
-6 an 4 ft
Goodridge fitting -4 to 1/8" pipe (quantity = 1)
Goodridge fitting -6 to 1/8" pipe (quantity = 2)

The larger line (low pressure, 125 psi) is 4 ft and where I have everything, is just right to get from the regulator to the solenoid.

The smaller line (high pressure, bottle pressure) is from the bottle to the regulator and just wraps around the seat rubber standoffs so it has a place to lay.

The other "trick" is to use a small amount of teflon paste, not teflon tape, on the pipe threads. The shop will also have this.

If you are adding a gauge in-line, you will need a tee and that came from Ace Hardware.


Thu Oct 31, 2013 8:49 pm
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If I don't care about the horn, can I use a harness that just uses the horn button as ground? Or is it more complicated than that?

That is the part that has me confused. I have the parts for a Gen1 setup, have done like 5 of those.

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Mon Nov 04, 2013 6:14 pm
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Shane661 wrote:
If I don't care about the horn, can I use a harness that just uses the horn button as ground? Or is it more complicated than that?

That is the part that has me confused. I have the parts for a Gen1 setup, have done like 5 of those.

Been 2 years since I hooked my horn up for the air shifter, I ended up totally disconnecting the horn, it's different than a Gen I, remember Smokin smoked his gauges :shock: , or something like that. Think I ran wires from my solenoid to the horn button.

wee


Mon Nov 04, 2013 6:23 pm
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Lucky, in the pic shown of your set up, the valve for turning the bottle on and off, where did you get it ? This is where I'm having constant leak issues with the MPS set up.


Tue Jun 24, 2014 5:42 pm
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Romans wrote:
Lucky, in the pic shown of your set up, the valve for turning the bottle on and off, where did you get it ? This is where I'm having constant leak issues with the MPS set up.
I like using NOS brand 1lb bottles, not cheap but top quality.

wee


Tue Jun 24, 2014 5:43 pm
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-14705NOS-Ni ... ae&vxp=mtr

wee


Tue Jun 24, 2014 5:47 pm
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Whee, do you have any pictures of your bottle valve or can show your set up ?

Here is pic of what I'm rebuilding.

Image


Fri Jun 27, 2014 10:32 pm
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Romans wrote:
Whee, do you have any pictures of your bottle valve or can show your set up ?

Here is pic of what I'm rebuilding.

Image


LUCKY14R wrote:
Finally, in my case, here is how it all fits under the seat:


Image


What Bottle and reg and where from please. I don't mind either set up but cannot locate any thing near these sizes in Aust or on line that will ship to here.
Starting to run out of ideas.
Any help is much appreciated
cheers
Max


Wed Jul 16, 2014 12:49 am
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Here are the correct P/N for the ram, cleve and air cylinder w/ prices


Attachments:
20150310_200104.jpg
20150310_200104.jpg [ 794.43 KiB | Viewed 5520 times ]

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Wed Mar 11, 2015 1:04 am
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Want to replace my nos lines, what size do I need to order? 2ft 4an?, and 4ft 6an? Fittings?

wee


Mon Mar 30, 2015 12:10 am
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I was going to order online but I want to make sure the lines are high quality, so I'll take them to Lone Star Performance to match them.

wee


Mon Mar 30, 2015 11:57 am
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This is the best solenoid made, thanks for the advise Smokin, went to Yello Belly Drag Strip tonight, it shifted every pass, 100 psi.

wee

https://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=361


Sun Apr 12, 2015 10:42 pm
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Wheelie wrote:
This is the best solenoid made, thanks for the advise Smokin, went to Yello Belly Drag Strip tonight, it shifted every pass, 100 psi.

wee

https://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=361


This is the best solenoid made

Not sure BUT
I haven't missed a shift since I fitted it.


Mon Apr 13, 2015 2:33 am
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2 questions please.

What makes this a better solenoid, are the ports bigger?

does anyone have the part# of the clevis to get so you don't need to buy a $45 shift lever clamp?

Thanks

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Tue May 12, 2015 4:21 am
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Will this set up work using my pcv instead of kill box?


Sun Feb 21, 2016 7:22 pm
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Need those pics updated lol

wee


Fri Sep 08, 2017 12:49 am
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Wheelie wrote:
Need those pics updated lol

wee


$399.99 a year? REALLY?!
Can you give me a loan?


Fri Sep 08, 2017 6:51 am
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You still have the pics?

wee


Fri Sep 08, 2017 8:50 am
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OK, fixed. :mrgreen:


Fri Sep 08, 2017 8:55 am
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