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 How to: DIY Air Shifter for Gen I ZX14 
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I got this from Wheelie and he got it from Rich Craft 1. Before that – I don’t know! If anyone sees something wrong with the procedure, please jump in!!!
All you need is a little background in basic tools, electrical wiring, and “plumbing.” It’s not cheap, but it is a good solid system that uses quality components. We chose Nitrous because it is always available at the track and a 1 lb. bottle is good for hundreds of shifts. You could also use CO2 or an on-board compressor or even the original – air!
If you have an Ace Hardware, you can pick up all of the following for the Ram mount in one place:
Stud 5/16" x 2.5" Ace Hardware (1.5" fine thread, 0.5" shoulder, 0.5" coarse thread)
Drill bit – 9/32
Tap 5/16 x 24 (fine thread)
1" spacer – chrome, 5/16”
5/16" Jam nut – thinner than a regular nut and allow for more threads into the motor mount
Acorn nut,and 5/16 nut, both coarse thread and both chrome
5/16” clevis and ¼” clevis pin (to mount to the shift lever).
Here is the stud (carburetor stud, I believe) (Note that one end is fine thread and the other is coarse):

Attachment:
Stud.jpg
Stud.jpg [ 285.06 KiB | Viewed 313 times ]



Here is the stud mocked up (without the 1” spacer that would be between the jam nuts (also showing only regular nut, ‘cause that’s all I had handy). The nut to the right does not exist in the actual assembly, but shows about where the chrome spacer would extend to, leaving about 8 threads to thread into the engine mount bolt. Excuse the old hardware, but you get the idea:

Attachment:
Stud Complete.jpg
Stud Complete.jpg [ 298.04 KiB | Viewed 313 times ]


Sat Jan 26, 2013 12:16 pm
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The motor mount is already hollow, so you are just drilling it out slightly bigger to be able to tap it to 5/16 x 24 (fine thread). The book calls for a drill size of Letter “I” (0.272) but unless you own a machine shop, a 9/32 (0.281) drill bit will work fine. Drill and tap to ¾ inch deep will be plenty as the stud will only have about 10 – 12 threads at most into the mount. You can do this in place, but if you are comfortable with removing and replacing the mount, you will see that it is somewhat “pointed” and if you grind it flat, it will provide a more solid mount. On final assembly, use thread locker to insure that the stud stays in place.
The order of assembly for the top mount is to thread the first jam nut to the shoulder, add the spacer, then the other jam nut. Check to see how many threads are left. If memory serves, I only had 6 or 8 threads, and I wanted more, so I ground off a small amount from the back side of the chrome spacer to get me 10 – 12 threads. Next double nut the coarse thread end, put thread locker on the fine thread end, then tighten into the engine mount.

Assembled, it looks like this:

Attachment:
Top Mount.jpg
Top Mount.jpg [ 455.19 KiB | Viewed 313 times ]


Sat Jan 26, 2013 12:17 pm
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The Ram is now ready to mount. I assume that you already went to Grainger (Schnitz has the same parts, but the price is about double) and bought the following:
Air Cylinder 5ZEE4 (Must press out the pin in the top mount and drill to 5/16”)
Solenoid 6JJ52

Thread the clevis on the bottom shaft of the Ram and hang the Ram on the top mount and add a nut so it doesn’t fall off. The critical thing at this point is to have the shaft at its midpoint of travel exactly lined up with the arm of the shift lever so there is no binding in either the up or down direction. My clevis was too long to allow this, so I had to cut it off, but buying a proper length clevis in the first place would work also. The clevis is 5/16’ but I used a ¼ ‘ clevis rod to go through the hole drilled in the shift lever to avoid any binding. The hole should be drilled at a point that keeps the Ram near-vertical.


The end result, in my case, looks like this:

Attachment:
RamComplete.jpg
RamComplete.jpg [ 858.42 KiB | Viewed 313 times ]


Sat Jan 26, 2013 12:18 pm
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06 -11 ZX-14

The rest of the install is a matter of wiring and plumbing, depending on your choice of “air” and electronics. The Carolina Cycle regulator (part # 12050) will serve well to step down Nitrous or CO2 to 125 or so psi.

If you go with the MPS Autoshift box (1-0299) the following wires on the 2006 – 2011 models will be tapped in at the ECU as shown. Please do a reality check and confirm that these colors correspond to the numbered wires at the ECU, since I do not have access to an older model to look at.

#1 white/red
#2 white/blue
#3 white/green
#4 white/yellow
To make those wires easy to find, it will look like this:

Attachment:
ECU Coil Wires.jpg
ECU Coil Wires.jpg [ 618.19 KiB | Viewed 313 times ]


Sat Jan 26, 2013 12:18 pm
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Finally, in my case, here is how it all fits under the seat:

Attachment:
Under Seat.jpg
Under Seat.jpg [ 1.14 MiB | Viewed 313 times ]


Sat Jan 26, 2013 12:19 pm
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Thanks Lucky !!! We are going to make this one a sticky at the top of the page .. Nice work .. :thumbs:


Sat Jan 26, 2013 4:48 pm
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Thanks Lucky, very helpful.

wee


Sun Jan 27, 2013 1:04 pm
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I really want to do this, however I also want race rails :cry:

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Mon Feb 11, 2013 2:02 pm
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hey guys, found a website for the solenoid and cylinder for about half the price of grainger. The website is Zoro tools part numbers G2638264 cylinder and G1419713 valve.
any order over $50 ships free, I added a clevis for the cylinder and total came to $50.34.


Tue Apr 09, 2013 9:53 pm
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babszx wrote:
hey guys, found a website for the solenoid and cylinder for about half the price of grainger. The website is Zoro tools part numbers G2638264 cylinder and G1419713 valve.
any order over $50 ships free, I added a clevis for the cylinder and total came to $50.34.
babszx good find !!! Thanks for the info ... :thumbs:


Wed Apr 10, 2013 9:32 am
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So has anyone made one of these yet?

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Thu Apr 25, 2013 1:49 pm
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caps wrote:
So has anyone made one of these yet?
yes.

wee


Thu Apr 25, 2013 2:49 pm
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Lol, care to enlighten me on who?

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Thu Apr 25, 2013 3:15 pm
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caps wrote:
Lol, care to enlighten me on who?
Put together an air shifter? Yes, Lucky has the same one as me.

wee


Thu Apr 25, 2013 3:18 pm
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Wheelie wrote:
caps wrote:
Lol, care to enlighten me on who?
Put together an air shifter? Yes, Lucky has the same one as me.

wee

How do you like it? I was debating getting the Dynojet one since I have the PC already, but I've heard a few horror stories...

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Thu Apr 25, 2013 3:43 pm
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caps wrote:
So has anyone made one of these yet?



This must fit in the category of:

“I know that you believe you understand what you think I said, but I’m not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant.” :D


Thu Apr 25, 2013 3:50 pm
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Hey guys. I just bought an MPS air shift kit for my 2012 ZX14. Where the heck am I supposed to put the bottle and compressor? There is room if I remove the tool box for the compressor. My 1 lb. bottle needs a home. I thought about getting a drag seat made without the passenger portion...plenty of room there. Who would make a seat like that for me? Will I have to get a swingarm with a bottle mount to make it all work? I wanted to run stock wheel base for now just so I can get some seat time. Considering stretching it later in the summer. Any help or pictures would be greatly appreciated. I do need a seat like the one pictured on the blue 14 in this post.


Fri May 10, 2013 5:50 pm
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Turbomrk wrote:
Hey guys. I just bought an MPS air shift kit for my 2012 ZX14. Where the heck am I supposed to put the bottle and compressor? There is room if I remove the tool box for the compressor. My 1 lb. bottle needs a home. I thought about getting a drag seat made without the passenger portion...plenty of room there. Who would make a seat like that for me? Will I have to get a swingarm with a bottle mount to make it all work? I wanted to run stock wheel base for now just so I can get some seat time. Considering stretching it later in the summer. Any help or pictures would be greatly appreciated. I do need a seat like the one pictured on the blue 14 in this post.

Your one lb bottle will fit like the blue one, you need to trim a little under your seat to make it fit. Remove the tool box and add the compressor.

wee


Fri May 10, 2013 5:54 pm
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Turbomrk wrote:
Where the heck am I supposed to put the bottle and compressor? . Any help or pictures would be greatly appreciated. I do need a seat like the one pictured on the blue 14 in this post.


Pic above shows the bottle mounted under the seat. All you have to do is move the master cylinder reservoir and mount it toward the back, as shown.

.


Fri May 10, 2013 10:39 pm
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LUCKY14R wrote:
Turbomrk wrote:
Where the heck am I supposed to put the bottle and compressor? . Any help or pictures would be greatly appreciated. I do need a seat like the one pictured on the blue 14 in this post.


Pic above shows the bottle mounted under the seat. All you have to do is move the master cylinder and mount it toward the back, as shown.

.

Ok Lucky14R...I will try that. Thank you. :thumbs:


Sat May 11, 2013 8:19 pm
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Wheelie wrote:
Turbomrk wrote:
Hey guys. I just bought an MPS air shift kit for my 2012 ZX14. Where the heck am I supposed to put the bottle and compressor? There is room if I remove the tool box for the compressor. My 1 lb. bottle needs a home. I thought about getting a drag seat made without the passenger portion...plenty of room there. Who would make a seat like that for me? Will I have to get a swingarm with a bottle mount to make it all work? I wanted to run stock wheel base for now just so I can get some seat time. Considering stretching it later in the summer. Any help or pictures would be greatly appreciated. I do need a seat like the one pictured on the blue 14 in this post.

Your one lb bottle will fit like the blue one, you need to trim a little under your seat to make it fit. Remove the tool box and add the compressor.

wee

Thanks Wheelie...I have plenty of room for the compressor since I removed the tool box. :thumbs:


Sat May 11, 2013 8:22 pm
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Turbomrk wrote:
Wheelie wrote:
Turbomrk wrote:
Hey guys. I just bought an MPS air shift kit for my 2012 ZX14. Where the heck am I supposed to put the bottle and compressor? There is room if I remove the tool box for the compressor. My 1 lb. bottle needs a home. I thought about getting a drag seat made without the passenger portion...plenty of room there. Who would make a seat like that for me? Will I have to get a swingarm with a bottle mount to make it all work? I wanted to run stock wheel base for now just so I can get some seat time. Considering stretching it later in the summer. Any help or pictures would be greatly appreciated. I do need a seat like the one pictured on the blue 14 in this post.

Your one lb bottle will fit like the blue one, you need to trim a little under your seat to make it fit. Remove the tool box and add the compressor.

wee

Thanks Wheelie...I have plenty of room for the compressor since I removed the tool box. :thumbs:
You're welcome.

wee


Sun May 12, 2013 12:08 am
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Hey Lucky14. I took your advice and I was able to mount my bottle under the seat. Strangely my master cylinder is attached to the cross member via a bracket in the same location as yours. And there is a fuse box attached where the base of your bottle is. I simply removed the box from the tab it was attached to and tie wrapped it to the sub frame. I didn't have to cut my seat bottom at all. I will post pics as soon as I figure out how to do it. :bigthumb:


Sun May 12, 2013 9:01 am
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Lucky14. I'm liking the steel braided line that you are using. What size line is that and is it Teflon hose inside? Does anybody really use the plastic hose that comes with the kit? I know the steel braid is 100 times more durable. But does the plastic line work or is it more trouble than it's worth? Thanks for your help.


Sun May 12, 2013 9:06 am
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Turbomrk wrote:
Lucky14. I'm liking the steel braided line that you are using. What size line is that and is it Teflon hose inside? Does anybody really use the plastic hose that comes with the kit? I know the steel braid is 100 times more durable. But does the plastic line work or is it more trouble than it's worth? Thanks for your help.


Braided steel nitrous lines:
-4 an 2 ft
-6 an 4 ft
Goodridge fitting -4 to 1/8" pipe (quantity = 1)
Goodridge fitting -6 to 1/8" pipe (quantity = 2)

The larger line (low pressure, 125 psi) is 4 ft and where I have everything, is just right to get from the regulator to the solenoid.

The smaller line (high pressure, bottle pressure) is from the bottle to the regulator and just wraps around the seat rubber standoffs so it has a place to lay.

The easy way to do this is to take your parts to a hot rod shop that does nitrous and let them find all the fittings of the right size and do a trial assembly.

The other "trick" is to use a small amount of teflon paste, not teflon tape, on the pipe threads. The shop will also have this.

If you are adding a gauge in-line, you will need a tee and that came from Ace Hardware.

Good luck!


Sun May 12, 2013 10:34 am
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LUCKY14R wrote:
Turbomrk wrote:
Lucky14. I'm liking the steel braided line that you are using. What size line is that and is it Teflon hose inside? Does anybody really use the plastic hose that comes with the kit? I know the steel braid is 100 times more durable. But does the plastic line work or is it more trouble than it's worth? Thanks for your help.


Braided steel nitrous lines:
-4 an 2 ft
-6 an 4 ft
Goodridge fitting -4 to 1/8" pipe (quantity = 1)
Goodridge fitting -6 to 1/8" pipe (quantity = 2)

The larger line (low pressure, 125 psi) is 4 ft and where I have everything, is just right to get from the regulator to the solenoid.

The smaller line (high pressure, bottle pressure) is from the bottle to the regulator and just wraps around the seat rubber standoffs so it has a place to lay.

The easy way to do this is to take your parts to a hot rod shop that does nitrous and let them find all the fittings of the right size and do a trial assembly.

The other "trick" is to use a small amount of teflon paste, not teflon tape, on the pipe threads. The shop will also have this.

If you are adding a gauge in-line, you will need a tee and that came from Ace Hardware.

Good luck!
Good info Lucky.. :clap:

wee


Sun May 12, 2013 11:13 am
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LUCKY14R wrote:
The other "trick" is to use a small amount of teflon paste, not teflon tape, on the pipe threads.

I've read before to use paste rather than tape. Some of my fittings came "ready coated" with something.
On bare metal threads I've used PTFE tape without leaks. Should I be looking to replace all the tape joints with paste?


Sun May 12, 2013 11:24 am
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GM14 wrote:
LUCKY14R wrote:
The other "trick" is to use a small amount of teflon paste, not teflon tape, on the pipe threads.

I've read before to use paste rather than tape. Some of my fittings came "ready coated" with something.
On bare metal threads I've used PTFE tape without leaks. Should I be looking to replace all the tape joints with paste?
Not necessary, but I plan on doing it.

wee


Sun May 12, 2013 11:28 am
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LUCKY14R wrote:
Turbomrk wrote:
Lucky14. I'm liking the steel braided line that you are using. What size line is that and is it Teflon hose inside? Does anybody really use the plastic hose that comes with the kit? I know the steel braid is 100 times more durable. But does the plastic line work or is it more trouble than it's worth? Thanks for your help.


Braided steel nitrous lines:
-4 an 2 ft
-6 an 4 ft
Goodridge fitting -4 to 1/8" pipe (quantity = 1)
Goodridge fitting -6 to 1/8" pipe (quantity = 2)

The larger line (low pressure, 125 psi) is 4 ft and where I have everything, is just right to get from the regulator to the solenoid.

The smaller line (high pressure, bottle pressure) is from the bottle to the regulator and just wraps around the seat rubber standoffs so it has a place to lay.

The easy way to do this is to take your parts to a hot rod shop that does nitrous and let them find all the fittings of the right size and do a trial assembly.

The other "trick" is to use a small amount of teflon paste, not teflon tape, on the pipe threads. The shop will also have this.

If you are adding a gauge in-line, you will need a tee and that came from Ace Hardware.

Good luck!

Thank you Lucky. I will take your parts list and the parts I need fittings for to the speed shop and let them hook me up. Although I'm using air I still like the security of braided hose. Thanks a bunch man! :thumbs:


Sun May 12, 2013 5:54 pm
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Curious bout the longevity n operation of the zoro parts listed above, cheaoer may not be better but if its a good working part then its a great deal

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Thu Sep 26, 2013 9:24 am
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also curious about the quality of the cheaper parts. updates?


Sat Nov 09, 2013 5:52 pm
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jordanv3122 wrote:
also curious about the quality of the cheaper parts. updates?

They look identical to Grainger, and I think the prices are the same.

wee


Wed Nov 13, 2013 8:04 pm
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i've had the cheaper parts from Zoro tools on my bike for 1 season now, no problems, they are the same exact parts from grainger if you search the part number from the maunfacturer :thumbs:


Wed Apr 16, 2014 9:07 pm
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babszx wrote:
i've had the cheaper parts from Zoro tools on my bike for 1 season now, no problems, they are the same exact parts from grainger if you search the part number from the maunfacturer :thumbs:
Good info. :bigthumb:

wee


Wed Apr 16, 2014 9:16 pm
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I'll give you guys little tip ..don't use C02 , use N20 ... With C02 I would miss shifts even if I set it to 150 PSI .. since I switched to N20 and lowered the PSI to 120 I have not missed a single shift ..With N02 the shifter hits much much harder than the C02 did even with a lower PSI.. You ask why , well I have no clue .. Here is the funny part , if I turn on the co2 and change the system and then turn it off I get ONE weak assed shift .. Then use n20 , change the system and turn it off I get 3 to 4 runs down the track .. :shock: :vroom:


Wed Apr 16, 2014 9:48 pm
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Anyone have a diagram or info on how to hook up the PCV as a Kill box? Ive seen one for a PC3 with 2 relays, but not for PCV. Using the MPS kit here minus kill box. Thanks.

http://www.mpsracing.com/products/MPS/autoshift.asp


Wed Oct 08, 2014 8:25 pm
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Also does anyone have the software for the quick shifter. I can't find it anywhere. Thanks.


Thu Oct 09, 2014 5:37 pm
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2008SE wrote:
Anyone have a diagram or info on how to hook up the PCV as a Kill box? Ive seen one for a PC3 with 2 relays, but not for PCV. Using the MPS kit here minus kill box. Thanks.

http://www.mpsracing.com/products/MPS/autoshift.asp



Is this what you are looking for? This is not my area of expertise so cannot answer questions about this diagram. Its not my work. I copied it off this wonder full site.


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Thu Oct 09, 2014 6:02 pm
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I got it figured out. It was for a friend of mine. That diagram will make it much easier in the future though, thanks so much.

Air shifter sure makes a nice difference, I rode his 14 afterward and can't believe the difference. Even though I shift clutchless it is nowhere near as quick or smooth. Gotta be worth at least 2-3 tenths. I've been sticking with the foot shifting and made it to 9.2x, but now I'm sold!


Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:33 pm
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The PC5 can be used to kill ignition, fuel or both for use of a quickshifter. You connect a wire from one of the switch inputs to the PC5 to ...i guess it is probably the stock gear position sensor. Then you program your kill time, fuel cut/ignition cut using the PC5 software. Step 30 here. http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm? ... D496563332

Have not tried but probably will mess with it this summer. Seems to me you could footshift clutchless at WOT like I currently do with my strain gauge quickshifter.


Sun Jan 15, 2017 7:02 pm
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Pics please lol

wee


Fri Sep 08, 2017 12:29 pm
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There! Fixed it!
I fixed the other thread a few days ago. Didn't realized there were 2 threads.

Happy? :lol:


Fri Sep 15, 2017 9:01 am
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