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 Carpenter valve springs worth it? 
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Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2014 7:46 pm
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Has all bolt ons and abiut to get 48mm throttle bodies and was wondering if carpenter 60lb springs would be beneficial?


Mon Dec 14, 2015 7:39 pm
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Joined: Wed Apr 02, 2014 3:59 pm
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
if you are going to rev it or continue to mod it into the future I would.
Of course the head has to come off so may as well do head studs also.
Hell now the motor is out what about the bottom end.


Mon Dec 14, 2015 11:20 pm
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Was told I can use factory studs but may get ape studs , had marine tighten up my crank, bought new rings and 2 new rods and of course all new gaskets and oil catch just encase. Can't really afford Carillo rods and don't really need them. I suppose I'll order the valve springs but heard ot can take hp away on stock engine.


Tue Dec 15, 2015 6:21 am
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So if I do not plan on building the motor and do not plan on spraying nitrous is it worth it to put heavy duty springs in the bike with only full bolt ons


Wed Dec 16, 2015 6:50 am
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If you're not planning on spraying or raising the limiter then I wouldn't bother.


Fri Dec 18, 2015 9:34 am
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Sar PM's have been raised through the flash ECU


Sat Dec 19, 2015 6:52 am
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Joined: Mon Mar 04, 2013 1:04 pm
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Heavier springs takes more power to operate. If you are not doing some sort of power adder, n20 or turbo, then adding the heavy duty springs will cost you power that you will not be adding back by other means. I would not do it, in that situation.


Tue Dec 22, 2015 2:36 am
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motocycho wrote:
Heavier springs takes more power to operate. If you are not doing some sort of power adder, n20 or turbo, then adding the heavy duty springs will cost you power that you will not be adding back by other means. I would not do it, in that situation.

You would think that is true thinking, but it is not altogether factual. The cam lobe is pushed down by the same spring load it takes the cam lobe to overcome in the first place.

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Tue Dec 22, 2015 7:09 pm
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kawasakijockey wrote:
motocycho wrote:
Heavier springs takes more power to operate. If you are not doing some sort of power adder, n20 or turbo, then adding the heavy duty springs will cost you power that you will not be adding back by other means. I would not do it, in that situation.

You would think that is true thinking, but it is not altogether factual. The cam lobe is pushed down by the same spring load it takes the cam lobe to overcome in the first place.


So it's like pushing a heavy load in a wheel barrel up a hill? The heavier the load, the harder it is to get up the hill, but then it's less work to get it back down the hill?


Tue Dec 22, 2015 7:36 pm
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motocycho wrote:
kawasakijockey wrote:
motocycho wrote:
Heavier springs takes more power to operate. If you are not doing some sort of power adder, n20 or turbo, then adding the heavy duty springs will cost you power that you will not be adding back by other means. I would not do it, in that situation.

You would think that is true thinking, but it is not altogether factual. The cam lobe is pushed down by the same spring load it takes the cam lobe to overcome in the first place.


So it's like pushing a heavy load in a wheel barrel up a hill? The heavier the load, the harder it is to get up the hill, but then it's less work to get it back down the hill?
Yes ,but the wheel barrel going downhill is tied to another pulling it uphill. As the valve spring is pushing down on that lobe, it is in turn helping another cam lobe overcome another valve spring.

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Wed Dec 23, 2015 6:48 pm
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I understand what you are saying so should I get them or no? The only engine mod I've done is bored tbs (not really engine mod) other than that just fully voted on. Basically every bit on possible. Going to take it to adams or htp after the build for tuning. Will run a 89 pump map and a mr12 map for racing


Thu Dec 24, 2015 9:11 am
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I would just shim the factory springs for a little more pressure. They do not weaken over time like the aftermarket springs do, and I have had some Carpenter springs break. Mike.


Thu Dec 24, 2015 9:32 am
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Thanks Mike, I'll order shims now.


Thu Dec 24, 2015 11:07 am
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The old theory is use just enough valve spring pressure to control the valve.
Years ago, guys building 1/4 midget motors used to set spring pressure by backing it off until the valves just started to float at the end of the longest straightaway and then return to the previous pressure.
HD springs may be needed with some camshaft changes, nitrous, turbo's, increased rpm limits, etc.
I ran stock springs and pressure with a couple of my street turbos but only ran 12 or 13 lbs of boost.
More boost would have needed more spring pressure.


Thu Dec 24, 2015 1:23 pm
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My flash extended the limit by 500 so maybe I should get HD Springs?


Thu Dec 24, 2015 7:08 pm
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I have my rev limiter raised 500 rpm, and I have the stock valve springs shimmed, and have had no problems at all. Bike never misses a beat. Many people have their limiter raised 500 with stock springs and they are having no problems, so if you shim them, you should be good to go. Mike.


Thu Dec 24, 2015 7:23 pm
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I'd throw the springs on a spring tester...any good motor shop has one.
Check them all.
See whatcha got and how much a shim changes the pressure...decide from there.


Thu Dec 24, 2015 9:31 pm
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Just an FYI..the gen1 14 valve springs have a tested seat pressure of 24-26psi. The Carpenter springs are 52psi. Installed height was 1.325 iirc.

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Fri Dec 25, 2015 6:36 am
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I have gen 2 and not real access to a machine shop locally. Maybe just throw some shims on them and call it a day? I guess my main question is, would HD Springs be too much for my application?


Fri Dec 25, 2015 7:59 am
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Shim 'em..

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Fri Dec 25, 2015 8:08 am
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Sounds good. I looked for gen 2 Springs but have a bard time finding them. The ones I found have a lot of different "numbers" that need to be specified and not sure where to find out which ones I will need. Any ideas?


Fri Dec 25, 2015 9:29 am
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