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 Doing some mods Throttle body bore 
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Joined: Sun Mar 03, 2013 4:52 pm
Posts: 184
Ok I'm going to pull my motor on my 2012 14
I put a 50 shot on over the summer so I'm going to put spings in
So I'm going to deck the head .20 clean it up
Bore my throttle body's I've got the scnitz flash was wandering should I remove the secondarys
What else should be done prb going to spray a little more
Any input please
Cams?


Tue Nov 24, 2015 5:24 pm
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Joined: Sat Jan 19, 2013 2:35 am
Posts: 3423
Location: Saint Petersburg FL
Yes toss the flies ... I don't know if you need cams , they are pretty big now ..

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Tue Nov 24, 2015 6:57 pm
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Thanks smoking
That's what I was thinking no cams just A little head work and some springs
Plus figured if I have to make new plates why make up any for the secondary's


Wed Nov 25, 2015 11:57 am
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Should I do studs ?


Thu Nov 26, 2015 12:32 pm
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Joined: Wed Apr 02, 2014 3:59 pm
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
i would for sure. In fact if I ever had a motor out for any reason and it didn't already have descent springs and studs I would do them regardless of my power goals.


Thu Nov 26, 2015 3:23 pm
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Thanks for the input ozz
Looking at springs I see carpenter springs are 62 psi and use stock retainers
And ape are 57psi and use titanium retainers
Witch do lk considering not a big motor build


Fri Nov 27, 2015 12:43 pm
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Joined: Wed Apr 02, 2014 3:59 pm
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
I went with APE just for the retainers, but I shimmed the spring for more seat pressure if I want to run higher boost. I don't think it would make a lot of difference which brand you went with on a NA motor


Fri Nov 27, 2015 3:20 pm
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Joined: Sun Mar 03, 2013 4:52 pm
Posts: 184
Thanks
I've lookked at a lot of old threads but didn't find how did you guy eliminate the pair valve
I've read it Throws a code on the gen2,
heard just doing wire at plug any pics the four lines going to tbs the air control valve can you remove


Fri Nov 27, 2015 8:11 pm
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2013 10:37 am
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Location: central Illinois
Yea it throws code, I just plugged mine back in for now. We didn't do studs on mine, we did however back cut the trans. And it's amazing


Fri Nov 27, 2015 11:04 pm
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Joined: Wed Apr 02, 2014 3:59 pm
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
there is a small plug in that stops the code, mine came with the covers, I think EBay


Fri Nov 27, 2015 11:36 pm
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Joined: Wed Apr 02, 2014 3:59 pm
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
Not sure about my copy past URL skills
Seems there is only 1 seller with the plug.
search ebay for
PAIR Valve Eliminator with SMOG block off plates Kawasaki ZZR 1400 ZX14R

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R4 ... R&_sacat=0


Sat Nov 28, 2015 2:26 am
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Joined: Sun Jul 06, 2014 6:23 pm
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As far as the Pair Valve, it measures 25 ohms. go to a good electronic supply store and get a 24 ohm 25 watt resistor and solder it in place to the harness. If you can't get the 25 ohm in 25 watt get 2- 50 ohm and wire them in parallel not series. this will give you 25 ohms with wattage to not overheat the resistor. Don't get smaller (watt) resistors as they will not take the almost 2 amps the pair valve can draw. It will not show a code. you can then take out all the plumbing and the switching valve. Buy 2- rubber caps to cover the reed valve covers to save a lot of money, Glue them on good, save the section of the hose where the system gets it air from the air box (frame) and glue a rubber plug in the hose, trim to fit and glue the hose back into the air box.
Total cost is under 5 dollars. This cleans up the top of the motor nice and no more backfires. PS: Leave the reeds in there unless you do get the block off plates or the rubber caps will see heat from the exhaust.


Tue Dec 01, 2015 10:47 am
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Joined: Sun Mar 03, 2013 4:52 pm
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So just decked my head 25thous
We're should I set my cams at.?


Tue Dec 15, 2015 12:34 pm
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